Saturday, July 23, 2016

Colosseum Scarf - A Crochet Scarf for All Seasons - Free Pattern



I haven't posted in such a long time that I thought I'd offer a little treat today -- a free crochet scarf pattern.  This pattern is quite easy, and works up quickly, with an easy to remember four row repeat. Because the fringe is worked in loops of chain stitches as the final row at each end, you don't have to go through the additional steps of finishing off, measuring and cutting fringe, and attaching it.

One of the great things about this scarf is that because it is a fairly open, lacy stitch pattern, you can wear this piece comfortably in any season. For example, if crocheted in a cotton or linen blend yarn, it makes a wonderful accessory for summer.


Another nice feature of this pattern is that you can easily change the width or length; even crocheting it as a shawl, if you wish.  Just adjust your foundation chain (you need a multiple of 6 +5).  The version shown above in the blue/green, Color 42 of Plymouth Yarns Kudo, is worked on a foundation of 35 chains (30 +5).

I call this my "Colosseum Scarf" because the stitch pattern reminds me of the arched windows of the Roman Colosseum.



Below, you will also see some photos of a narrower version that I crocheted using Trendsetter Yarns Zensation.  For this one, I started with a foundation of 23 chains (18 +5).





I hope you enjoy making this pattern!  I'd love to hear from you about your experiences with making it.

Colosseum Scarf
Designed by Angela Saylor
©Angela Saylor 2016

Materials:
  • 2 hanks Plymouth Yarns Kudo (55% Cotton/40% Rayon/5% Silk – 100 g/198 yards – worsted weight) Color 42 (There was a fair amount of yarn  left, I would guesstimate it took about 300 yards)
  • Crochet Hook – Size I -9 (5.5mm)

Finished dimensions: About 9 inches wide by 75 inches long (including fringe)

Instructions:

This scarf is worked outward from the center.  One side is completed and then the yarn is rejoined in the center and the other side is completed.

Foundation: Chain 35

First Half:

Row 1: Single crochet (sc) in 2nd chain (ch) from hook and in each ch across (total: 34 sc); turn

Row 2 (right side): ch 4 (counts as first treble [tr]), tr in each of the next 3 sc, *ch 2, skip the next 2 sc, tr in each of next 4 sc*, repeat from * to * ending with 4 tr in the last 4 sc; turn

Row 3:  ch 1, sc in each of the first 4 tr, ch 2, skip the ch 2 space, *sc in each of the next 4 tr, ch 2, skip the next ch 2 space*, repeat from * to *, until you reach the last group of tr, then end your row with 1 sc in each of the last 3 tr and 1 sc in the top ch of the ch 4 (counted as 1st tr in previous row); turn

Row 4:  ch 7 (counts as 1 tr and 3 ch), skip 4 sc, work 2 tr in the ch 2 space, *ch 4, skip the next 4 sc, 2 tr in ch 2 space*, repeat from * to *, until you reach the last 4 sc, then ch 3, skip 3 sc, tr in last sc; turn

Row 5:  ch 1, sc in first tr, ch 3, skip ch 3 space, sc in each of next 2 tr, *ch 4, skip ch 4 space, sc in each of next 2 tr*, repeat from * to * until you reach the final ch 7 , then ch 3, skip 3 ch, sc in next ch (conceptually, this is the 4th chain of the 7 chains and counted as the 1st tr in the previous row); turn

Row 6: ch 4 (counts as first treble), work 3 tr in the ch 3 space, ch 2, skip next 2 sc, *work 4 tr in the ch 4 space, ch 2, skip next 2 sc*, repeat from * to * until you reach the final ch 3 space,   work 3 tr in ch 3 space, tr in last sc; turn

Rows 7-42: Repeat Rows 3-6 nine more times (or until you reach the desired length, being sure to end with Row 6)

Row 43:  ch 1, sc in top of the ch 4 (counted as first tr in previous row), sc in each of the next 3 tr, work 2 sc in the ch 2 space – continue in this manner working 1 sc in each tr and 2 sc in each ch 2 space to the end of the row (total: 34 sc); turn

Fringe row: ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 25, sc in next sc*, repeat from * to *, ending with a sc in the final sc (total of 33 fringe loops).

Finish off, work in your ends.

Second half:

With right side facing you, attach yarn by working a slip stitch in the unworked side of the first ch of the foundation chain.

Row 1: Work Row 2 of first half.

Rows 2-42: Work Rows 3-6 of the first half 10 times (or until you reach the desired length.

Row 43 and Fringe Row: Work the same as for the first half.


Finish off, work in your ends.

This pattern is my own design.  I don't mind if you copy it for your own personal use, but please do not sell it.  Further, please do not disseminate it to others without attributing the design to me and/or linking back to this page.  To do so is a violation of my copyright.  If you wish to sell finished versions of scarves you crochet from this pattern, that is not a problem.  However, again, I would just ask that you respect my work by indicating that I am the designer.  Thank you!

Friday, April 29, 2016

Take Part in the Creative Process - A New Option for Necklaces in My Etsy Shop



A few times in the past, I've written posts that highlight what I've sometimes called my "weedy" necklaces.  They feature multiple strands in wire and/or fiber, crocheted with beads.  Each necklace is one-of-a-kind, and each strand in each necklace is unique.  I think my favorite part of the process is choosing colors and materials! I pull out my stashes of wire, threads, yarns, beads and play around with them until I get combinations I'm happy with.

It's been particularly enjoyable to make my "weedy" necklaces (actually, I've taken to calling them my Gossamer Tangles' Signature Necklaces) for weddings.  I get the bride's input on colors, length, number of strands, and other details and then I use those guidelines to create my necklace design. Making these necklaces for my daughter and her bridesmaids was something I will always treasure -- it gave me a unique feeling of connection to that beautiful day!

Now, I've decided to open this option up to anyone who wants to be part of the creative process of designing one of my "Signature" necklaces.  I've created listings in my Gossamer Tangles Etsy shop that allow you to choose how many strands you'd like your necklace to include (3-6), the type(s) of materials it will be created from (wire, fiber, or both), the length of the necklace (16 inches - 24 inches), the colors or color families you'd like (1-6) and the metal for the clasp (silver, gold, antique silver, antique gold, brass, antique copper, or gun metal).

Listing for Customizable Three Strand Necklace
Listing for Customizable Four Strand Necklace
Listing for Customizable Five Strand Necklace
Listing for Customizable Six Strand Necklace

Gossamer Tangles Etsy Listing for 5 Strand Customizable Crochet Beaded Necklace


Here's a little sample of some of the necklaces of this type that I've created in the past:






















I can't wait to see what types of creations my customers and I will come up with together!  This should be lots of fun for me and for them.  If you're interested, just check out the listings in my Etsy shop!

Wednesday, March 2, 2016

Pretty Petals - Crochet Beautiful Spring Blooms With Pip Beads


I know, I know -- it's been a very long time since my last post.  I won't try to explain or make excuses, but I do hope you enjoy this little tutorial (sort of) on how to crochet a flower using pip beads, and how to then transform that flower into a pendant and create your own necklace. Here in Michigan, we just experienced another winter storm and the temperatures are frigid today, but my thoughts have turned to spring ... and flowers.

Below is a list of the materials that I used to create the necklace you see coming together in the photos. For convenience, I've included links that will take you to sites where these materials are available.  You should, however, feel free to make substitutions to achieve the look you want.  The technique and instructions can be used flexibly.

Crocheted Pretty Petals Necklace

Materials:
  • Czech glass pip beads (color shown is Alabaster Pastel Petrol - available at Fusion Beads) - 50
  • 32 gauge round Parawire (color shown is Baby Blue - available at Fusion Beads)
  • 30 gauge round Artistic Wire (color shown is Tarnish Resistant Silver - available at Fusion Beads)
  • 3mm Swarovski crystal pearls (color shown is Light Gray - available at Fire Mountain Gems) -30
  • C-Lon Tex 135 Beading Cord (color show is Silver - available at Bello Modo)
  • SAE Flat Zinc Washer - 3/8"
  • Antique silver toggle clasp
Tools:
  • 2.0 mm crochet hook
  • scissors
  • wire clipper
  • large-eyed needle
Instructions:  First, you will make two circles --  one to serve as the base for the flower and one will form the back of the pendant.

Circle (Make 2):


To begin: Use the C-Lon cord to make an adjustable "magic ring".  

Round 1: Make 5 single crochets (sc) into the ring.  Join with a slip stitch (sl st) to the first sc and then pull the "magic circle" closed.

Round 2:  Chain (ch) 1.  Working in the back loops only (blo), make 2 sc in each sc around, for a total of 10 sc.  Join with a sl st to the first sc.

Round 3:  Ch 1. Again, working in the blo, sc in first sc, 2sc in next sc, *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc*.  Repeat from * to* until you complete the round, working 2sc in the last sc. Total of 15 sc.  Join with a sl st to the first sc.

Round 4: Ch 1. Again, working in the blo, sc in the each of the first two sc, work 2 sc in the third sc, *1 sc in each of the next two stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch*. Repeat from * to * until you complete the round, ending with 2 sc in the last stitch.  Total of 20 sc.  Join with a sl st to the first sc.  Fasten off, leaving a long tail of about 15 inches for sewing.

NOTE:  If you'd like a larger flower, you just need to add more rounds until you achieve the desired size.

Now, add "petals" to one of the circles:

To begin:  String all of the pip beads onto the spool of C-Lon cord.

Make a slip knot on your hook.  With the right side of the circle facing you, insert your hook under the free front loop of the first sc in the first round of the circle   Move one of the pip beads up close to the sc, with the cord over your hook, pull the cord under the front  loop of the sc and through the slip knot loop on your hook. (See photo below)  Tighten the stitch.


Now insert your hook under the front loop of the second crochet in the first round of the circle. Again, slide a bead up close to the sc, with the cord over your hook, pull the cord under the front loop of the underlying sc and through the remaining loop on your hook.  In essence, you are slip stitching the beads to the front loops of the single crochets on the circle.  


Continue working in this manner until you complete the first round, and then simply move out to the second round and repeat the process, and then the third round and repeat the process, until the first three rounds are filled with "petals".


Do not add beads to the last round of the underlying circle (i.e., no beads on the edge). Do not fasten off.

Create the loop for attaching your pendant to the necklace:  Ch 8 (or number needed to give you the loop size you want) and then attach with a sl st to the sc in the last round directly behind the chain (making a loop).  


Fasten off.  Weave in your ends. 

Create a center for your flower:

Using the 32 gauge blue wire, make a slip knot on your hook, leaving about a 6 inch tail.  Ch 4.  Sl st in the 4th ch from the hook.  Ch 3. Sl st in the same ch as your last sl st. Ch 3. Again, sl st into the same chain.


Continue in this manner until you have 5 loops of 3 chains each.  Fasten off and leave about a 6 inch tail.  Thread one of the 3 mm glass pearls onto one of the tails and secure it in the center of the petals. Pull the wire tails through the middle of the crocheted circle with the bead petals attached to it (i.e., pull the wires through the center of your original "magic ring") until the the wire petal center you've created sits firmly in the center, among your bead petals.  Then turn the circle over, twist the wire tails together, and work them into the back of the stitches that make up the crocheted circle in order to secure your center. Use your wire cutters to clip off any excess wire.

Complete the pendant:  


Thread the long tail on the remaining crocheted circle (without bead petals) onto your needle.  With wrong sides facing, sew the two circles together, catching the loops of the single crochets on the edge of each circle.  Insert the washer between the two circles and enclose it as you sew (it thus becomes hidden in the center, between the two circles). 


The purpose of the washer is to give the pendant just a little bit of weight, so that it will hang properly on your necklace.  Once the circles are completely sewn together, with the washer inside, fasten off and weave in the ends.



Crochet the Necklace: The necklace is made by creating three separate crocheted strands and then braiding them together.

Strand #1:  Using the C-Lon cord, with the remaining pip beads pre-strung on it, make a slip knot on your hook.  Leave an 8 inch tail.  Ch 5. *Pull bead up next to hook and ch 1 (bead is worked into ch). Ch 5.*  Repeat from * to * until your strand is about 19 inches long. Fasten off.  Leave an 8 inch tail.

Strand #2:  String the crystal pearls onto the blue wire.  Use the wire to make a slip knot on your hook.  Leave an 8 inch tail.  Ch 3. *Pull bead up next to hook and ch 1 (bead is worked into ch). Ch 3.*  Repeat from * to * until your strand is about 19 inches long. Fasten off.  Leave an 8 inch tail.

Strand #3:  Use the silver wire to make a slip knot on your hook.  Leave an 8 inch tail.  Work chain stitches until your strand is 19 inches long.  Fasten off.  Leave an 8 inch tail.

Hold the three strands together at one end, so that the first chain stitch of each strand lines up.  Knot the strands together at that point (where the stitches begin), leaving the tails free beyond the knot. Now, fairly loosely, braid the three strands together.  When you've braided the entire length of the crocheted part of the strands, tie another knot to secure the braid, leaving the tails free beyond the knot.  

Slide the loop of your pendant over the braided necklace strands until it reaches the middle of the braid.


As an alternative, you could use an antique silver jump ring to connect the pendant to the braided necklace.

Now, using the tails, secure the two parts of the toggle clasp to the ends of each strand. I inserted the tail ends through the loops on each part of the toggle clasp, tied two knots into each end, cut off the C-lon cord (leaving just a tiny bit beyond the knot), then wrapped the knots and cord ends tightly with the remaining two strands of wire from the tails.   I wove the wire ends into the chain stitches at the end of the strands to secure them, and clipped off any excess wire.


That's it. You're done! 



Now play around with what you've learned.  Create your own design! Here are a couple more that I came up with.



On the necklace shown below, the beads are a slightly different shape -- like chrysanthemum petals. They are often referred to as "petal beads".  The same technique outlined here works for this type of bead, too.



I hope you use this tutorial to create something beautiful for yourself!  If you do, please share your photos.  I would love to see your work! If you have questions, I'm happy to answer them.  Let me know what you think. :)